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| Stage view for Exodus, Wacken 2008 |
Alright, Maryland Deathfest is less than one week away, the
Europe summer festival season is upon us.
Since my first taste of festival going in 2008, I’ve been addicted. Festivals have been the cornerstones of my
adult life and one of the places I’ve felt most at home, regardless of country
I was actually in. There's a sort of atmosphere and camaraderie that I can't explain, that I've never found anywhere else. Is that cheesy? Maybe.
I’ve been to six fests total, Wacken and Party San (both 2008, Germany),
Hellfest (2011, France) and this year will make 4 Maryland Deathfests (2009,
2010, 2011 and 2012). I might not have
been to every fest in every country, but people always seem to ask me how I’ve
done it, so I’ll share.
Some of it has been sheer luck and connections. I went to Wacken/Party.San as part of a group. I met my best friend in Italy and we took a special bus to Hellfest. May I suggest now you make friends who live overseas? Meet them on tours, online, on trips of your own- it can really make the Euro-fest going a lot easier as an American. Some of it, I have learned the hard way. Some of it is common sense, even granny advice, but things to consider. Most of this advice is only useful if you’re an American going overseas but some is just good advice. Obviously, going overseas requires a much greater financial and planning commitment. (Let me repeat: A MUCH GREATER FINANCIAL AND PLANNING COMMITMENT!) So, check it out- some of this overlaps a lot, but hear me out- there’s damn good reason.
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| Wacken Camper City, 2008 |
BEFORE YOU GO:
1. PLAN THAT SHIT. If you’re staying in the states, you have
much less choice in your metal going adventures, but there’s more now than even
five years ago. Research carefully! Plan carefully. Is it an open air? Do you need a tent? (More
on this later) Do you need a hotel
reservation? Do you need plane
tickets? How will you get from the airport
to the fest? Some festivals have busses
or bus services that will drive people specifically to the fest from various
hotels/city centers. Do you need a reservation for a bus? Where else do you want to go before/after the
fest? Can you go with a friend? Can you
meet a friend? Do you want to go in a
group? (This can lessen the cost, but one person in your group needs to be over
25 and drive a stick shift to rent a car.)
Are you comfortable with flying solo?
How much is the currency worth? Do you need a visa? Do you have a passport? Where can you park your car securely? How much is it to park? Are there any sights you want to see? How much time can you get off work and when? Plan WELL IN ADVANCE how much this trip will
cost (more on this later).
Look at the line up, see how many bands usually cancel and
if replacements are usually scheduled.
For some reason, festivals in South America have more cancelled and
un-replaced bands than fests in the US or Europe- I don’t know why it is, it
just is. Fests in the US may have last
minute cancellations due to our crazy visa process (see: Lock Up, cancelling
day of their MDF show and breaking the PitGoddess’ heart. L). Of all the fests I’ve been to, I’ve found it
to be true that at least half of what makes a fest great is atmosphere. You’ll meet so many people, see cool shit,
buy cool shit, drink a lot. Whatever
fest you chose, make the best of it.
Pro Tip: BUY YOUR
TICKETS EARLY. It’s easier and cheaper
to sell a ticket than to try to buy one at the last minute. The week before Hellfest, tickets were going
for 600+USD. Some fests don’t do guest
list/VIP spots- if you’re counting on one, don’t assume. You might end up unable to get into the camp
grounds and having to sneak into the loading area of the fest and relying on
the generosity of your friends’ friends, your boyfriend’s band, a friend from
back home and a promoter who is sick of arguing.
Not that I did that, ever. If you
want to go this route, you have to accept the possibility you might be outside
all weekend. Not just outside the stage
area- outside the campground- away from the shower truck and even the Porta
Pottys.
Euro Pro Tip 1: Europe has tons of festivals, from Download, Wacken, Bloodstock, Tuska, NWN, Obscene Extreme, Hellfest, Party.San, Brutal Assault…all the way down to tiny festivals at public pools (there’s one in Portugal!). Some fests are officially over (Hole in the Sky, Mountains of Death [RIP]) and some are on the same weekend. Make sure your festival of choice is actually happening the year you intend to go. You will most likely not like all of the bands, but you should like some. Half of the fest is atmosphere, but some bands are a one in a lifetime kind of deal.
Euro Pro Tip 1: Europe has tons of festivals, from Download, Wacken, Bloodstock, Tuska, NWN, Obscene Extreme, Hellfest, Party.San, Brutal Assault…all the way down to tiny festivals at public pools (there’s one in Portugal!). Some fests are officially over (Hole in the Sky, Mountains of Death [RIP]) and some are on the same weekend. Make sure your festival of choice is actually happening the year you intend to go. You will most likely not like all of the bands, but you should like some. Half of the fest is atmosphere, but some bands are a one in a lifetime kind of deal.
Euro Pro Tip 2: If
you’re already going to be in Europe, plan a small sightseeing trip around the
fest. If you’re flying in and out of a
major city, perhaps book a few days at a hostel, visit a friend, buy a bus
ticket- something. Intra-Euro airfare
can be VERY cheap on discount airlines, maybe less than 50 EUR (plus the cost
of a checked bag). If not, you’re
essentially spending what will be thousands of dollars and probably 12-24 hours
of round trip travel on a weekend trip.
If you’re shelling out plane ticket money, might as well see some sights
too! (If not, you’re kind of a heel and
I/people/I will laugh at you.)
ELEMENT OF RISK: Granny alert: Plan for extremes. Look, you can skimp on planning. You can be lazy with planning. THERE IS ALWAYS RISK IN TRAVELLING, FAILING TO PLAN WILL ADD EXPONENTIALLY TO THAT RISK. You can show up at an Open Air without a tent and hope to meet someone who is willing to put you up. It can and does happen. But you have to accept the possibility that you MAY be sleeping in a sleeping bag under an open sky. It rains a lot in Northern Europe. You can book a late flight and the last train/bus to the festival. You can opt not to make a reservation. However, if you’re delayed and show up late, the bus may be filled, you may miss it and essentially be screwed. Some fests sell out 8 months in advance. Sometimes busses sell out, some require a reservation. Making some phone calls in advance can save a hell of a lot of trouble and panic.
ELEMENT OF RISK: Granny alert: Plan for extremes. Look, you can skimp on planning. You can be lazy with planning. THERE IS ALWAYS RISK IN TRAVELLING, FAILING TO PLAN WILL ADD EXPONENTIALLY TO THAT RISK. You can show up at an Open Air without a tent and hope to meet someone who is willing to put you up. It can and does happen. But you have to accept the possibility that you MAY be sleeping in a sleeping bag under an open sky. It rains a lot in Northern Europe. You can book a late flight and the last train/bus to the festival. You can opt not to make a reservation. However, if you’re delayed and show up late, the bus may be filled, you may miss it and essentially be screwed. Some fests sell out 8 months in advance. Sometimes busses sell out, some require a reservation. Making some phone calls in advance can save a hell of a lot of trouble and panic.
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| MDF Bound, 2010 |
2. IT IS EXPENSIVE AS
HELL. Plane tickets, festival
tickets, hotel, merch, food, beer, rental car, bus tickets, train tickets,
etc. Sometimes you can cut costs, and
sometimes it’s not possible. Plane
tickets to Europe in June-July will be expensive no matter what. There’s no way around it. If you’re flexible, you can look into flying
into different cities and taking busses.
Buy your ticket early to save money.
Plan a trip with friends. Stay
with a friends/friends. Book a hostel (some book
up to a year in advance!)
Be realistic.
If you aren’t the kind to hit people up for a tent to stay in or a hotel
to crash in, just shell out the damn money. If you're not ok sleeping outside/in a car/who knows, just pay the money.
You do need to eat and drink (beer AND water). In the US, you can possibly walk to a store
to get some food. My favorite cheapie is
the 7-11 two hot dog, chips and a drink combo.
Or the bodega across from MDF.
Some fests in Europe are literally in the middle of nowhere. Maybe you can pack snacks to save on costs,
but at some point, you will probably want to eat some tasty vendor food. Luckily, it’s usually tasty and reasonably priced. German fests are really good at this. There may not be a lot of vegetarian options
and fewer vegan options. There may be
nearby shops in walking distance, or the fest may offer a free bus service to a
local market.
Merch money. You may
think you can live without merch, but limited edition stuff spread out over one
square mile of JUST vendors. Holy.
Shit. If you’re like me, you will want
something. You’ll want to look and touch
and buy. Take merch money, think of the
exchange rate. Also, plan where you're going to PUT that merch- some fests have daily locker rentals, or maybe you can run it up to your hotel.
Don’t spend your whole trip budget at the fest! Just in case you pack WAY too much and need
to pay a fee at the airport, in case you run out of gas, take a pay road, get
way too hungry, need to use a public toilet, need to take a cab, or anything
else you plan on doing AFTER the fest (including the airport!) Keep some money just in case. I know, shut up grandma.
Euro Pro Tip #3: You may want to shower, being outside in the sun/rain/shit river/mud all weekend. Some open airs provide toilet/shower trucks and charge a flat fee for use the whole weekend. Bring money for this. Fests are filthy- it rains, the ground turns to mud, the urinal goop mixes with the mud. Seriously, Wacken had a river of pee/mud.
Euro Pro Tip #4: Cash is your friend. Before you go…BEFORE YOU GO, shop around for the best exchange rate. Your bank will most likely have a better rate than at the airport, but the airport guarantees the rate. Most vendors do not accept credit cards in the US or in Europe. Not all banks have foreign currency all the time- call in advance.
Euro Pro Tip #3: You may want to shower, being outside in the sun/rain/shit river/mud all weekend. Some open airs provide toilet/shower trucks and charge a flat fee for use the whole weekend. Bring money for this. Fests are filthy- it rains, the ground turns to mud, the urinal goop mixes with the mud. Seriously, Wacken had a river of pee/mud.
Euro Pro Tip #4: Cash is your friend. Before you go…BEFORE YOU GO, shop around for the best exchange rate. Your bank will most likely have a better rate than at the airport, but the airport guarantees the rate. Most vendors do not accept credit cards in the US or in Europe. Not all banks have foreign currency all the time- call in advance.
Using your CC overseas will cost you; usually a flat rate at
an ATM and a percentage of every transaction.
Call your bank to find out if they have a partner where you will not be
charged an ATM fee. If you are taking your credit card overseas (a good idea in
case of emergency!) call your bank and tell them! If not, your card may get put on hold. (Mine got locked down for buying overseas
plane tickets.) Like I said, planning in
advance can save you a lot of hassle later on.
| I packed my bags! Hellfest, 2011 |
WHEN YOU PACK:
3. PACK ALL THE GEAR
YOU NEED. Check the weather, pack
accordingly, but don’t over pack. You
need room to bring merch home. Pack
enough clothes for your trip, but don’t pack your whole damn closet. Bring a jacket- you’ll thank me. You might be walking a lot- Wacken’s campground
was a few square miles; our walk just to the festival grounds was over a
mile. Pack for comfort. Print out/download all your maps if you’re
driving, the bus schedules, train schedules, street sign translations,
reservations for planes/busses/trains, and that little flier the fest website
will have that tells you the general rules.
Again, there’s an element of risk. If you’re like me, and pack way too many
pairs of shorts and not enough jeans and it rains the whole fucking time…well,
you’ll be cold. Yeah, I know you know.
Euro Pro Tip #5: I
wish I knew this last year. It rains a
lot in Northern Europe. If you’re doing
an open air- bring a poncho. You don’t
have to wear it like a doofus, but you can lay it on the ground in the tent so
rain doesn’t soak into your sleeping bag.
Waking up in 50 degree weather (in shorts and a tank top), in the middle
of a field, in a soaking wet sleeping bag, is not how I wanted to spend any
night ever, let alone the night before Hellfest. If you're staying in a camper, then lucky you! Open a window before you crash.
4. THE LITTLE SHIT. After you’re done packing your shit, there’s
all that other shit that you need- camera, phone, Kindle, chargers. Whatever.
But then there’s the shit that (I) don’t think of until it’s too
late. Those stupid baby wipe things are
great if you want to go without a shower.
Like I said earlier, sunscreen is a must for fair skinned people. Those EmergenC packets of vitamins (you will
get sick), Pepto Bismo (ugh, for those weak tummied people like myself). Condoms,
if you’re doing the overseas hookup thing. A snack is also a must for me, especially for
a long flight or on a long bus ride. This is maybe for sentimental people like me,
but a pen and paper. I’ve met SO many
people at fests and always kicked myself if I didn’t get at least their name to
look up on facebook. Of the people’s
whose names and numbers I did get, I have maintained many great friendships
throughout the years. Maybe you’ll just
want to write down new bands, how much money you spent, or tasty food you ate. Maybe you’ll be on a 12 hour plane flight and
want to play tic-tac-toe with your non-English speaking seat partner.
If you’re doing the Europe thing you’ll need a handful of converters
for electronics. Numbers for American embassies
are good too. I don’t mean to sound
paranoid, but if some shit goes down, you lose your passport, you break a leg,
get horribly ill- you’ll want the embassies number.
Euro Pro Tip #6: Wear a watch. Your phone may not work in Europe, the battery may not last all four days (no chargers in the middle of nowhere!). Wear a watch and print out a festival schedule in advance so you don’t miss the band you flew thousands of miles to see. A watch with an alarm is best, although dorky.
Euro Pro Tip #7: Fanny
pack. I KNOW. I have fought the fanny pack, but I think I
might concede the next trip. All the
Euros rock a fanny pack. I’m
serious. Stop laughing. You will want to carry your passport at all
times (unless you have a locked space, like a car or camper, to leave it
in). You’ll want a discreet way to carry
money, maybe your phone if it works.
Maybe you men have deep pockets on all your pants with zippers and
magical carrying space or something, but if not, rock a fanny pack.
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| New Friends at MDF 2010. |
WHEN YOU’RE THERE:
5. Etiquette. Never be a fucking dick. This is universal. You’ll piss off the people around you, the
people with you, potential friends. Don’t
cause a shit storm in a mosh pit, don’t kick, don’t push, don’t…just don’t be
an asshole. However, you will SEE a lot
of dick. Really.
Euro Pro Tip #8: A little politeness goes a long way. Shit is different in different countries. Personal space might not be a thing. People might not speak your language. I always try to learn at least six phrases when travelling, in the appropriate language: please, thank you, excuse me, where’s the bathroom, No I don’t speak X, do you speak English? and I’d like a beer. A little effort will get you a long way- especially if the people really don’t speak English. Yeah, in Norway you’re probably fine, and in most major cities. But remember, not all fests are in major cities. Even if most of the festival goers speak English, the people you’re trying to ask for directions may not. This seems to be true the further east you go.
Euro Pro Tip #8: A little politeness goes a long way. Shit is different in different countries. Personal space might not be a thing. People might not speak your language. I always try to learn at least six phrases when travelling, in the appropriate language: please, thank you, excuse me, where’s the bathroom, No I don’t speak X, do you speak English? and I’d like a beer. A little effort will get you a long way- especially if the people really don’t speak English. Yeah, in Norway you’re probably fine, and in most major cities. But remember, not all fests are in major cities. Even if most of the festival goers speak English, the people you’re trying to ask for directions may not. This seems to be true the further east you go.
Euro Pro Tip #9: This goes along with not being a dick, but it’s
especially true in Europe. Some fests do
not allow political discussion or the wearing of political paraphernalia. This is especially true of “metalheads
against racism” fests. They ask you to
not wear any kind of political shit, especially fascist/Nazi stuff, and not to
discuss politics at all- right or left.
Of course, they can’t police it, but if someone reports you, you might
be asked to leave. Usually fest
websites will have a pamphlet online that goes over basic rules. Before you get all “I’m an AMERICAN, I’ll
discuss whatever I want, wherever I want to,” let me tell you to shove it in
your fucking piehole. If you’re in a
foreign country, play by their rules. If
you can’t handle that, overseas travel of any kind might not be for you. This isn’t to say politics can’t be
discussed in a conductive way- it can, but is a metal fest really where you
want to discuss this shit?
5.5 Don’t try. This is an addendum, but really- don’t drink
too much, don’t do weird drugs in strange places, don’t have unprotected
sex. Don’t try to stay awake and drink
the whole time- you will get sicker than normal and you will crash at some
inopportune time. I know, I’m granny
over here, but really- you want to have fun and party, who the fuck wants to
puke in a Porta Potty or come home with STDS? If you're going to drink in excess/do drugs, take it easy the night before you fly/drive.
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| This might be TOO much drinking. Wacken 2008. |
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| Laugh at passed out people who get shit put on them. Hellfest 2011. |
6. TRY. This sounds stupid. But really, there’s a lot that can go wrong in travelling in general- you get lost, you can’t speak the language, your favorite band cancels, it rains a lot. If you’re at a fest, someone is at home and would KILL to be there. Make the best of it. If you lose your friends, make new ones. If yours piss you off, take a break. Don't create drama and don't be "that guy/girl." Try new foods, drink new beers. Laugh at the passed out guy who cute girls cover in grass. (Totally happens). Drink lots of water. Really. Wake up early, walk around. See some sights if you're in a city. If you're at an Open Air, go to metal breakfast, talk to people. Make friends. Sometimes they'll invite you over for a free beer or five! Or give you neat shit. Or just tell you a funny story.
While language barriers and chased by bums occurrences aren’t funny at the time, they translate into hilarious Larry David-esque stories later. Come on, laugh at yourself and enjoy the ride.
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| Enjoying the Ride. Wacken 2008. |
So that’s it. That’s my rager Pitgoddess/ Granny advice. TL;DR: Plan in advance and save a lot of money. If you want to skimp on planning and money, you have to accept the elements of risk involved. Pack all the necessities and the extra shit you might need, like a poncho and electrical converters. Respect the rules of the place you’re in, don’t be a dick and most of all, fucking enjoy. Cheers!






